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To mulch or not to mulch. That is the question!
I get asked about this a lot.
Simply put, mulch is better for your plants and always will be.
Think about a forest floor. That is what we need to imitate. I mulch most of my beds with fallen leaves, and I love it! However, that may not be your cup of tea, so we can discuss mulch options.
I will say that dyed mulch is bad for the soil. Please do not use it.
Bark mulch tends to float away during rainstorms and blow away when you blow out the flower bed.
Cedar mulch breaks down slowly, repels bugs, and smells good. The slow breakdown can be good for the pocketbook, but it also adds nutrients to the soil at a much slower rate than other mulches.
Cypress mulch use can lead to over-harvesting of mature cypress trees and should be avoided altogether.
Hardwood mulch has great color, breaks down just right, protects plants well, and it's inexpensive. In my book, it's the only choice when it comes to commercial products.
One thing I strongly recommend is not putting a weed barrier under your mulch. It's a waste of money initially and then creates issues that cost more to fix later. It is never a good idea.
Now, let's discuss rock. It doesn't add nutrients to the soil. However, you won't need to replace it every year or two. It helps to suppress weeds, but not as much as some may think. A weed barrier is a must, but it acts as a germination mat for a lot of weeds. Keep in mind there will be maintenance with this option as well. It can be very time-consuming to blow out river rock because of how much debris collects in it, and it is also a must.
To wrap it up, mulch is better for your plants, but rock can save you a little money in the long run.
Bermuda grass growing under weed barrier
The issue pictured was created when a landscaper suggested putting weed barrier under mulch. This protects the roots of the bermuda grass (Zoysia as well) and allows it to grow uncontrolled. We had to go in and remove all the barrier to begin fixing the problem it caused.
The initial cost of installing the barrier was likely around $500, and the maintenance and herbicide spraying were probably around $200 before the issue was realized. The removal of the barrier was near $180. After all that, the grass needs to be dug up and sprayed for about a year until it is completely gone.
Even if you don't have grass growing near the mulched bed, there is absolutely NO NEED for weed barrier under mulch. It does not allow for proper nutrient exchange or prevent any weeds in this situation.
I see this happen all the time and hope that fewer people fall for this trick in the future.
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